Have you ever pondered the origins of thrift shopping? Interestingly, it traces back to the late 1800s, emerging during a severe global economic depression as a means to provide clothing and shelter to the disadvantaged and the millions who lost their jobs.
Initially associated with lower economic status and concerns about second-hand items carrying germs, the perception of thrifting shifted in the 1920s. Lady Millie Tallis, a former Melbourne showgirl, sought to de-stigmatize thrift shopping, leading to the renaming of stores as “opportunity shops,” or “op shops,” as we know them today. Over time, finding vintage pieces at these stores became fashionable, drawing more young people seeking style rather than necessity.
Today, op shops have surged in popularity, constantly inundated with donations. Particularly with the rise of “fast fashion” in the 90s and 2000s, characterised by the rapid production of clothing to keep up with fleeting trends, our society floods racks with cheap, poor-quality clothes. Shockingly, 90% of these donations end up in landfills without ever finding a new owner.
Despite this, op shops remain remarkable charitable organisations, often run by volunteers. They continue to aid millions of disadvantaged individuals through their retail outlets. Beyond providing access to clothing for those in need, many of these organisations utilise revenue to support global initiatives. For instance, “Vinnies,” or St. Vincent de Paul Society, operates an Overseas Partnership Program, collaborating with state and territory councils to undertake projects related to sustainability, education, and emergency relief in various countries.
Shopping at op shops not only promotes waste reduction and fosters sustainable wardrobe curation but also contributes to funding these charities. However, donating to op shops, while often viewed as honourable and generous, can sometimes serve as a weak justification to perpetuate excessive clothing consumption. The production of new clothing demands vast resources, from manufacturing to transportation, emitting significant carbon emissions and contributing to one of the world’s most polluting industries.
Understanding the resources required for clothing production, along with its disposal process and eventual destination, empowers us to make better choices when shopping and decluttering our wardrobes. While donating clothes seems virtuous and convenient, it’s crucial to ensure items are in good condition to increase their chances of resale. Higher-quality donations have a longer lifespan before they contribute to landfill accumulation.
It’s essential to recognise that op shops are not the final destination for clothing. Currently, 90% of all textiles end up in landfills, whether donated, resold, or discarded. The most effective way to reduce textile waste is by minimising new clothing purchases and utilising what has already been produced, whether by shopping our own wardrobes, opting for second-hand items, or participating in clothes sharing or rental initiatives.
In conclusion, we must assign greater value to our clothing and be mindful of its fate once we’re done with it. To echo Whitney Bauck, “What if we treated every clothing purchase like a tattoo purchase — with the understanding that it’s essentially a permanent decision, since a thrown-away t-shirt is not really going ‘away’.”
References:
https://www.abc.net.au/news/2020-01-12/history-of-thrifting-how-op-shops-shed-their-stigma/11785608
https://www.vinnies.org.au/